The Yungang Grottoes are located in Datong, Shanxi Province, carved into the southern foot of Wuzhou Mountain. Construction began in 460 AD under the Northern Wei Dynasty, initiated by the monk Tan Yao with imperial support. It is one of China's "Three Great Grottoes," alongside Dunhuang's Mogao Caves and Longmen Grottoes.

The site stretches about 1 kilometer east to west. It contains 45 main caves and over 59,000 Buddha statues. The largest is a 17-meter seated Buddha in Cave 5; the smallest are just a few centimeters tall. Cave 20's colossal cross-legged Buddha, exposed to the open air, is the site's iconic image.

A Story: The Horse That Recognized a Worthy Man

How did the Yungang Grottoes begin? It started with a horse.

According to the Weishu (Book of Wei), after a period of Buddhist persecution, the monk Tan Yao was traveling to the capital. Emperor Wencheng, the new ruler, happened to be out on his chariot. Suddenly, the emperor's horse broke free, ran straight to Tan Yao, and bit his robe.

The emperor saw this as an omen — the horse had recognized a "worthy man" (马识善人). He took Tan Yao back to court and gave him full authority over Buddhist affairs. In 460 AD, Tan Yao proposed carving Buddha images into the cliffs along the Wuzhou River, believing stone would withstand future destruction. The emperor agreed. The result was the majestic "Tan Yao Five Caves" — Caves 16 through 20 — which remain the heart of Yungang today.

What visitors appreciate most about Yungang is the sheer scale and artistic preservation. The huge, expressive Buddhas are deeply moving. Many note Yungang's caves are better preserved than Longmen's, with some interior paintings still retaining color. The "Tan Yao Five Caves" are the highlight, especially the 20th Cave, which is breathtaking with morning light。

The bad:

• It's a lot of walking. The site is large. The shuttle bus is short and skips scenery; the return loop is long.

• Some caves are often closed for maintenance due to conservation needs. Check ahead.

• No flash photography inside — it damages the ancient paint and stone.

.